Hard Truths:
- It gets overcrowded in the summer
- Beaches mostly rocky
- Wine snobs be warned
- Some shops and restaurants are seasonal
- Trains don’t run often in the off-season
Can’t Miss:
- Wineries
- Brewery Hopping
- Farms & Farm Stands
Being a Brooklyn local and an avid traveler, I’m always looking for weekend getaways from NYC that are not too far away. And with the state of travel these days, closer destinations have been a savior for me. I’m originally from Long Island so I figured I would start there.
I imagine most of you have heard of the Hamptons (and Montauk – future post to come!) but the lesser-known end of Long Island sits north of the Hamptons on the fork that sticks out at the end of the island, hence the name “The North Fork.” I grew up just west of there and remember it being pretty empty when I was younger. It had been known as a sleepy fishing area with a few vineyards dotted along the way. As the Hamptons became more and more famous (and overpopulated), people started looking for the next summer destination within driving/train distance to the city and in the early 2010s the North Fork started to become the next hot spot. Luckily it’s still not as crowded as the Hamptons but in the summer it can get fairly packed. It’s a great year-round option though and in the winter it’s nice and empty.
The North Fork has three main towns Mattituck, Southold and Greenport. These are also where the Long Island Rail Road stops with Greenport at the end of the line. Be warned the train schedule during the off season is very limited. For a weekend getaway in winter, there was only 1 evening train from Penn Station to Greenport ~5:30pm and then to get back to the city on Monday before noon the only option was a 5:30am train!
Greenport is where most of the action is so it’s the best place to stay. On my most recent visit, I stayed at The Menhaden which was a great boutique hotel in the perfect location. It’s within walking distance to the train station and the main streets.
Greenport has 2 main streets, Front Street and Main Road. They are very quaint but lined with lots of shops and restaurants. Be warned that some of them are only open seasonally like the seafood institution Claudio’s that has an amazing deck overlooking the harbor. There is enough open in winter to keep you entertained though like the bars adjacent to the American Beech Hotel, Black Lama Bar, Brix & Rye and Three Fourteen. Check out the Don’t Forget section for more restaurant, bar and hotel recs.
The best part of the North Fork, in my opinion, is the landscapes. There are beaches, cliffs, vineyards and farmland. And it’s worth checking all of them out. I am a beach bum and the hard truth about the beaches here are how rocky they are. There is no white powder sand like you can find on the South Fork. Some of the beaches are so rocky you might want to wear water shoes to get out into the sea. The nice part is how calm the water is since it’s the sound and not the ocean. But don’t expect any surfing spots. It’s great for paddle boarding and kayaking. And if you’re not into staying at hotels, there are usually houses to rent right on the water.
Majestic seaside cliffs can be found dotted along the coastlines as well. You can easily drive to the north or south edge of the fork to see some amazing views. One spot worth checking out is the the fairly hidden 67 Steps Beach near Greenport to see such views. There is also the Kontokosta Winery, in Greenport as well, which sits cliffside. This is also a good intro to the many wineries found in the North Fork. I like it more for the views and atmosphere but some of the wines aren’t bad.
There are 40 wineries out on the North Fork. In my opinion, the wines found here aren’t amazing, another hard truth. But if you take them for what they are instead of comparing them to great French, Italian, Californian, etc as most wine snobs would do (including me!) you can find some real gems.
A few worth a visit are McCall, in Cuthcogue, for the whites and the beef (from their grass fed Charolais cows which is a historic breed of cattle from France). The tasting room is in a big barn and if you wander around the vineyards you might see some of their cows roaming about.
Another must-see winery is the rosé only Croteaux. They are the only vineyard in the U.S. exclusively dedicated to growing vinifera or winemaking grapes for making only rosé. As they say, “Once you go pink, it’s all you’ll want to drink!” Their tasting room is fun and eclectic but mainly outdoors so it’s better for a warm weather visit. And especially great for summertime, the prime rosé drinking time!
I find most wineries in the North Fork produce better whites and rosés compared to reds. But by favorite winery out there, Macari in Mattituck, is amongst the few, in my opinion, that have mastered reds. They have a beautiful tasting room that overlooks the vineyards. There are private rooms for events including a cellar room and bungalows in the winter. Their tasting flights even include a charcuterie with cheese. In the summer, they also have a great pizza truck on the premises. Check out the Don’t Forget section for some more wineries to see.
When you’ve had your fill of wine, but are still thirsty you can move onto beer! There are a bunch of great local breweries out here. My first stop was Jamesport Farm Brewery. I was here during winter and they have a great indoor space but in better weather there is a sprawling outdoor space with picnic tables. There is also a great food truck parked outside in case you need something to help absorb all the beer.
Another great one to check out is the Greenport Harbor Brewing Co. They have a small location right in the town of Greenport which is walkable from the main streets but for the real brewery experience head to their Peconic location. It’s a huge indoor/outdoor space where they sell fun gear and serve good food. Check out the Don’t Forget section for some more breweries in the area.
As you’re driving to and from all these places, you can’t miss the all-encompassing farmland that surrounds you. It feels like you can’t drive more than 5 minutes without a farm stand popping up. A bunch of them are open for the majority of the year selling their tasty goods like the Country View Farm Stand which is open from April to November. And depending on the time of year there are some great options to get down and dirty and do some ‘farming’ yourself.
Head to Pattys Berries and Bunches for berry picking. To expand on berries, head to Wickham’s Fruit Farm to pick your own cherries, blueberries, peaches and apples. Garden of Eve has picking for pretty much everything from from berries to pumpkins and if you happen to be there in September check out their Garlic Festival! Head to Harbes Family Farm for lots of family events as well as apple and pumpkin picking. And if you haven’t had your fill of booze from all the wine and beer, you can get some hard cider as well at Woodside Orchards!
One last must-see farm is Lavender by the Bay which, as the name suggests, is a lavender field. If you can get out to the North Fork in the summer you might be lucky enough to see this place in full bloom which only happens for a few weeks usually in early July. Check out the Don’t Forget section below for more farms and farm stands.
Lastly, as expected, with so many fresh ingredients readily available, there are some amazing restaurants cooking them all up. There is a broad range of options as well from food trucks, to casual eateries to fine dining. My favorite is the North Fork Table & Inn which has been a top rated restaurant on Long Island. The food is unreal and the ambience is lovely. If it’s a bit too high brow for your liking be sure to check out their food truck. Sadly, it’s only open seasonally but well worth it if you’re out there at the right time of year. Check out the Don’t Forget section below for more restaurant recs.
Don’t Forget:
Restaurants & Bars: Claudios, North Fork Table & Inn, Noah’s, The Frisky Oyster, First & South, Halyard, Barba Bianca, Little Creek Oyster Farm, Kontiki, Lucharitos, Main Road Biscuit Co., Elbow East, Port Bar & Grill, Industry Standard, American Beech, Brix & Rye, Black Llama, Three Fourteen Bar
Hotels: The Menhaden, American Beech, Greenporter, Sound View, Harborfront Inn
Wineries: Macari, Kontokosta, Croteaux, McCall, Bedell Cellars, Sparkling Pointe, Shinn Estates, Bridge Lane, Lieb Cellars
Breweries: Jamesport Farm Brewery, Greenport Harbor Breweing Co., Eastern Front, Long Ireland Beer, Moustache Brewing, North Fork Brewing Co.
Farms & Farm Stands: Patties Berries and Bunches (May-Oct), Wickham’s Fruit Farm (May-Dec), Garden of Eve (May- Oct), Harbes Family Farm (May-Oct), Woodside Orchards (open year round), Deep Roots Farm (open year round), Country View Farm Stand (April-Nov), Cooper Farms (open year round), KK’s The Farm (open year round), Latham Farms (May-Nov), 8 Hands Farm (open year round), Bayview Market Farm (April-Dec), Treiber Farms (open year round, pickup only in winter), Capatano Dairy Farm