Hard Truths:
Can’t Miss:
*This post is dedicated to my Dad who died on March 13, 2023. He was an avid traveler like me and New Zealand was his favorite trip. Love you forever Dad!
New Zealand is filled with natural wonders. It’s no surprise some of its most beautiful landscapes were captured in films such as the Lord of the Rings, Chronicles of Narnia, The Last Samurai and Wolverine. It’s a truly magical place and should be on everyone’s bucket list.
I’ve had the chance to go a few times and my favorite trip was when my friend and I rented a car and drove around the southern part of the south island. We met in Christchurch and our adventure began from there.
Christchurch is a cute city on the eastern coast of the south island. This trip was just after the earthquake in 2011 which was magnitude of 6.2 and devastating. The city is still recovering today. Most of the city was closed off during this time. The photo above is the Canterbury museum which is still closed as of 2023.
The vibe there was buzzing. It didn’t feel like a awful tragedy had just struck the city. It felt like a very harmonious place. Everyone seemed to have banded together in helping to rebuild the city. They even created a makeshift town square out of the big containers from shipping boats which then turned into shops and cafes. It’s now become a creative and hip city where you can wander the streets to see the vibrant murals that tell the stories of the locals resilience and spirit.
It’s a pretty green city with a lovely big park in the middle, Hagley Park, which is next to the Botanical Gardens. It’s a great area to see by bike. We even came across a concert going on while riding around.
As a city on the water it’s no surprise there is a strong draw to explore those waters and the surrounding area. There are a few locations that offer cruises to see the harbor or go out to sea. We wanted to really get out into nature on the sea so decided to go to Akaroa Bay which is around 90 minutes away. When you get to the harbor, there are a bunch or tour operators. We went with Black Cat Cruises which offers a nature cruise around the harbor and beyond. They even offer a ‘Dolphin Guarantee’ if you don’t see any Hector’s dolphins you can cruise again for free.
It’s a big cruise ship but you could find some empty spots and get great views. Within minutes of our departure onto the turquoise waters there were dolphins playing alongside the ship! And then a penguin popped his head out. The wildlife didn’t stop there. We started going further out near a rocky cliff. It just looked like lots of rocks until we got closer and realized some of the ‘rocks’ were actually fur seals. They were peacefully basking in the sun.
Our plan after Christchurch was to take a road trip down to Queenstown. Renting a car is the easiest way to get around the island. Many people even rent camper vans and travel around with their families. There are long empty roads with majestic scenery to see along the way. But be careful, even with an empty road there are police hidden to catch you speeding (yes, we got a ticket!).
Along the roads is where you finally realize how many sheep are really in this country. They were surrounding us in pastures on either side of the drive. There are even sheep farms you can visit to see them up close and check out the wool making process.
Our first stop was Lake Tekapo which is ~3 hours away. It is known as the bluest lake in New Zealand. It has that similar luminescent turquoise we saw in Akaroa Bay. At the edge of the lake the mountainous drama of the Southern Alps can be seen. The lake is glacial-fed, and its radiant color is attributed by the minerals that come from the mountains where the glacier is situated. Its also part of a UNESCO Dark Sky Reserve, so make sure to look up at the glistening stars at night.
We didn’t plan anything for this trip so just looked for a place to stay once we arrived. Luckily we didn’t have to go far, the Lakefront Lodge had a room and who wouldn’t want to stay on the lake!
We only planned to stay one night so took off right away to explore the area. The lodge had some maps of hiking trails. It looked like the biggest hike was the Mount John Summit but we didn’t have enough time for that one. We chose a short one that brought us to a viewpoint overlooking both Lake Tepako and Lake Alexandrina. Beside the spectacular view, seeing the contrasting lakes side by side was remarkable. Lake Alexandrina is spring fed so is has a darker milky blue color.
Out short time there didn’t allow for some of the other activities like mountain biking, 4WD tours, golfing, hot springs or skiing if we were there in the winter.
We decided our next stop would be Lake Wanaka which is 2.5 hours away. There are over 800 lakes in New Zealand so it hard to avoid passing by one.
This was a quick stop for us as we were eager to get to Millford Sound. We missed out on some of the great things Lake Wanaka has to offer like hiking in Mount Aspiring National Park, which is a UNESCO World Heritage area, kayaking, sailing, skiing or canyoneering.
Next stop was Milford Sound which is ~3 hours away. The closest town to stay is Te Anau which of course is on a lake! It’s a quaint town known as ‘the gateway to Milford.’ And it’s still 2 hours away but worth it.
Milford Sound, known as one of wettest places on earth, is a Fiord in the southwest part of the southern island that was carved by glaciers in the ice ages. It get an average of 200 days rain a year. There are a few different ways to see it, by helicopter, plane, cruise and even hiking but I’d check the weather first for that one. The smaller boats can get closer to the shoreline where you can see more wildlife.
Most people say it’s best to be seen by boat but bring your raincoat and make sure it’s windproof. When we were there is was more foggy with light rain but it can get torrential downpours with strong winds. There are a number of tour companies that have all different options which I’ve listed in the Don’t Forget section. We went with Mitre Peak. They offer a 2 hour cruise on a small boat. And when they say small it’s a boat that fits 75 people.
As you start the cruise the stunning sheer cliffs start to surround you. When it’s rainy it brings out more waterfalls on the towering peaks making the misty mountains feel more magical. The cruise also takes you out to the Tasman Sea so you can really appreciate the fiord as you approach it. Even on a day with light wind the sea is very choppy crashing against the cliffs. We were lucky to see the rare Fiordland Crested Penguins.
Our last stop was Queenstown, which is only an hour further south. This amazing mountain town is built on the shores of Lake Wakatipu with plenty of thing to see and do.
The lake is a great place to start. There are so many viewpoints and hikes in the surrounding mountains to get more panoramic views. The most obvious is by boat to see the lakeside views. One option is to take a century-old steamship, which once carried Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip.
We opted for the famous Skyline Gondola, the steepest cable car in the southern hemisphere! This breathtaking ride takes you to the Skyline complex at the top of Bob’s Peak. The Remarkables Mountain range along the lake comes into view with all its glory. It’s truly an amazing vista.
Queenstown is known as the adrenaline capital of the world with bungy jumping, sky diving, white water rafting, zip lining, paragliding and much more. I’m too scared to do most of these!
The first bungy jump in the world is here, at Kawarau Bridge. It opened in 1988 with a 140ft (43m) drop. The view from the bridge alone is worth a visit. There was no way I was doing this after seeing others go!
We felt the need to do at least one of the adventure experiences so opted for sky diving. I had done it once before and loved it even though I was deathly scared up in the plane waiting my turn.
They first show you the basics of what you’ll need to do once you drop and land. Those directions went right our the door, literally, as we jumped out of the plane. You then get fitted in your uniform and meet your tandem instructor. Once everyone is suited up we get on the plane and begin the ascent. This is one of the scary parts for me. Watching the ground get further away and seeing everything shrink the distance. Once we reach 12,000 feet the plane levels off and we all get ready. Your tandem instructor really does it all. It all happens so fast, they don’t give you a chance to be scared. I’m sitting at the edge of the open plane door with my legs dangling and he starts counting. One, two and we’re already dropping. It feels like forever but it was only 45 seconds apparently and the the chute is pulled ~5,000 feet. This part is amazing. You get to see the landscape as you’re flying in the sky like a bird. The landing is a bit touch. You basically have to run and soon as your feet hit the field. Most people just fall over but everyone came out unscathed.
It was well worth the experience if you can handle it.
Most people, especially in the US, associate New Zealand wine with the Marlborough region but a lesser known region lies just outside Queenstown, Otago. It’s ~4.8k acres (~1.9 hectares) with over 130 wineries. The main grapes grown here are Pinot Noir but there are also a few white varieties like Chardonnay, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc. It’s definitely worth taking some time to visit some of these amazing wineries. The drive itself reveals the dramatic cliffs overlooking the Kawarau River.
With so many wineries to choose from it’s very tough to decide. I read up on some of them to narrow it down, but there were so many more I would’ve like to see. I’ve listed my favorites in the Don’t Forget section. Some of the wineries have caves to see all the barrels and sometime taste from the barrel. Others have restaurants attached to do a pairing meal. All will have a tasting room to try the different varieties. A lot of them also ship internationally. There is even some shops where you can put together a mixed case of your favorites wineries to ship. My favorites with Gibbston Valley and Mount Difficulty, their Roaring Meg was always highly recommend.
There are tours that can take you to a bunch of wineries but we preferred the freedom of renting a car. If you plan the trip on your own make sure to check if you need reservations, a number of wineries require them. Some will take you on a tour through the vineyards or even let you have a rest or even a picnic amongst the wines.
Last but not least the important info, where to eat, drink and sleep. Downtown is the main area where all the action is so we hung out there during our trip.
I believe the heart of Queenstown is the food. The food culture is a complete melting pot. You can get everything from local meats and veg to sushi, burgers or Italian. Even some of the wineries have restaurants.
Queenstown has a great bar scene too, something for everyone with the tons of options to choose from. Wine bars, rooftop bars, Tequila and rum bars. There’s even a bar with a mechanical bull!
Check out the Don’t Forget section for a list of my favorites.
Choosing a hotel can be daunting in general with so many options and neighborhoods to decide from and Queenstowns is no different. First, location, that’s the most important to me. There are some nice options in the heart of downtown, but I was drawn to the majestic Lake Wakatipu. There is a strip alongside the lake that is walkable to downtown with a number of options. You can get a room with a lakeside view as well! Further down, in Fernhill, are also some beautiful options which is only a 5 min ride into downtown. Then, there are so many other things to consider. Type of hotel, I prefer the boutiques, style, I like the more modern ones, amenities (pool, gym, breakfast, etc) and of course, price. Check out my Don’t Forget sections for some recommendations.
This small island country has so many wonders packed in. The landscapes are truly breathtaking, the air so fresh, and even with 5.1M people there are so many open spaces allowing you to have an experience all to yourself.
I feel like I’ve only touched the surface. I would come back multiple times over to encounter it all.
Don’t Forget:
Bars: Cowboy’s, Little Blackwood, Little Men, Fern’s Bar, Atlas Beer Cafe, Upstairs at the Bunker, Bardeaux, Eichardt’s bar, Yonder, The Sundeck, Habana
Hard Truths:Kathmandu shows itself as a 3rd world city with very polluted streets and airNepali 'Flat…
Can’t Miss:Michelin Star RestaurantsDriving Costal RouteCycling through vineyardsHard Truth: It’s empty in the off-season! Some entire…
Hard Truths: High premium paid for tours Tour Operators can change itineraries without notification Cuba…
Hard Truths:Popular restaurants need to be booked months in advance Be wary of altitude sicknessOnly take…
Hard Truths: It gets overcrowded in the summerIt's a big family destination -> Kids take over Water…
Hard Truths: There is traffic everywhere, ALWAYSWhen it rains it poursIt can be crowded all year…
